Throughout this tutorial, you'll find that we sort of 'combine' a few steps into one 'big' step but if you follow along and look at the pictures provided, you should be able to disassemble the Tokyo Marui AK47 with ease.  If you have any questions, feel free to contact us by clicking here.  You can see a full sized version of each picture by clicking on them.  They will open up in a new window.

* IMPORTANT NOTE * - This, as with all of our tutorials, are given to you as a guideline ONLY.  We highly recommend that if you are not mechanically inclined to perform this modification, that you allow a professional airsoft tech perform this procedure.  If at any time you find that you are unsure of a particular step, we recommend that you stop immediately and turn over your work load to a professional.

 
Step 1:
Take a moment to look at the weapon, it's orientation, screws, levers, handles, etc.  Take special note on what 'types' of screws and bolts go where.  Another thing you will want to do is to clear an area of a table, desk, workbench or where ever you plan to work on your weapon.  If you have not done so, at this time, disconnect and remove the battery.

   
Step 2:
On the back of the upper receiver you will see a 'button'.  This button holds the top cover on the weapon.  If you have a folding stock (AK47S) then this is how you would access the battery.  Push in on the 'button' and it will allow you to remove the top cover.

 
Step 3:
If you have the full stock version of the AK, you may (should) have a filler tube.  This really doesn't do anything and honestly.. I took mine out and left it out..  Anyway, remove this and set aside.

       
Step 4:
On the bottom of the handle (pistol grip) you will see a flat head screw.  With a standard/flathead screw driver, loosen and remove this screw.  Be sure not to lose it as it is a special size that is specially for the grip.

 
Step 5:
After the screw has been removed in the above step, you should be able to pull on the grip itself.  This will slide off of the motor assembly.  As a pointer, place the grip and the screw in the same location so that you don't get them mixed up with other screws and pieces.

 
Step 6:
At the back of the TOP of the receiver, you will see one single flathead screw.  Loosen and remove this. 

Step 7:
Flip over the weapon and you will see two more on the bottom.  Loosen and remove these as well.

* Technicians note * : The screws in steps 6 & 7 are infamous for falling out and it is recommended that a small drop of Loc-tite be applied to the screws when reassembling the weapon.  Loc-tite can be purchased at most hardware or automotive parts stores.  If you do not have Loc-tite you can simply wrap the stock with some cloth tape to help the screws from loosening.  DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN when you reinstall ANY of the screws removed.  In this particular weapon, the stock was apparently 'glued' to the receiver making it impossible for us to remove even after the screws were removed.  We assure you that mech box removal IS possible with the stock in place as you will see in the following steps.

Step 8:
After you have removed the stock, unclip the battery wire adapter.  The adapter has a small plug that connects to the mech box and on the other side, a large plug to connect to the battery.  By disconnecting the adapter wire, you can leave the adapter wire inside the stock and set aside.  Sorry no pictures for this step.

   
Step 9:
Remember the 'button' from step 2?  if you look down at it, you will see a 'rod' that is inserted into it.  This rod is connected to a spring that holds tension... holding the top cover on the weapon.  With your finger, push it forward and then rotate upwards to remove it.

For some reason.. I've seen a few 'rookie techs' mess with this plate.  I don't know why.. but as I am about to show you... you do NOT need to mess with it.

   
Step 10:
If you pull back on the charging handle, it will expose the HOP UP adjustment.  With a small phillips head (plus sign) screw driver, loosen the screw all the way, but do not remove from the hop up lever. 

Step 11:
With a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully remove the hop up lever and the screw all together.  Be sure to keep an eye on the orientation of how it went in.  It has to reinstall the same way or you will lose adjustment on the hop up.  If you look carefully, you will see that there really is only one way for it to install.  Just be careful.

Step12:
If you look at the top of the weapon just opposite the charging handle, you will see a small screw.  This screw holds the top plate on the weapon.. over the mech box.  If you are unlucky like this AK owner.. you will have a broken top plate from someone over tightening the screw when they reinstalled it.  Like I said above, do not over tighten.

Step 13:
With a small phillips screw driver, remove this screw and set aside.  Again, be sure not to lose this screw, it is needed to reinstall correctly. 

   
Step 14:
Now that the screw has been removed and you have dislodged the rod from step 9.. You can completely remove the upper cover.. charging handle and all.  Carefully pull back and upwards on the entire unit.  It will come out.  Take special notice to see how it 'slides' forward to lock into place when it is installed.  It will need to be 'locked' into place when you reinstall.

Step 15:
You should be able to see the mech box now.  You're close.  Flip the weapon over and look at the bottom of the receiver just forward of the magwell.  You should see two phillips head screws.  Loosen and remove them.

Step 16:
Now.. look inside the magwell.  You should see two more phillips head screws.  Loosen and remove these as well.

* Installers note* The screws removed in steps 15 & 16 are infamous for self loosening and falling out.  A small drop of Loc-tite can help prevent this.

 
Step 17:
Please take a moment to notice which screws came from which locations.  The longer set of screws goes in the front forward of the magwell.. and the shorter screws go 'IN' the magwell.

 
Step 18: (OPTIONAL)
If you look just in front of the mech box.. you will see two small screws.  These screws hold the barrel assembly to the front section.  It is NOT necessary to remove these screws to pull apart the weapon.. but if you plan to change out your barrel then it wouldn't be a bad time to remove them since you have the screw driver out anyway.

 
Step 19:
Now is the time to pull the front section away from the rear section.  Carefully yet firmly.. pull the entire front section forward about 1 inch.

Step 20:
After you have pulled the front section forward.. carefully tilt it downwards.

 
Step 21:
This will allow you to completely separate the front and the rear section.

   
Step 22:
Check to make sure that the nuts.. that hold the screws from step 15 & 16 are still in their places.  They may have fallen out.. or come 'dislodged'.  They simply 'fit' back in.

Step 23:
You should be left with simply the rear section

Step 24:
With a phillips head screw driver, loosen and remove the screw that holds the selector switch on.  In some case, you will have a 'cap' that covers the screw.  This cap simply 'pops' off with a little help of a flathead screw driver.  Unfortunately.. this AK did not have one.. so I don't have a picture to show you.

 
Step 25:
After the screw is removed.. you can remove the entire selector plate.  There is a piece inside of the selector plate that can only fit into the receiver ONE WAY.  Again.. this AK didn't have that piece and was somewhat 'jimmy rigged' to work so I don't have a picture to show you.

Step 26:
Now that the front section is off... and the selector plate is off.. you should be able to easily begin to  slide out the mech box from the lower receiver.

Step 27:
Once you get the mech box out about 1/3 of the way.. you'll see some 'gears' of sort on the outside of the weapon.  These 'gears' are the actual selector gears.  They connect directly to your selector switch/lever.. and your selector plate.  If these are timed in correctly.. your weapon will not fire correctly.  So.. take careful notice on how they go together and where they are lined up.  I normally use a sharpie to mark the position of the gears.

If you were unlucky like me.. and had to leave the rear stock connected.. while pulling out the mech box from the receiver.. you'll have to pull the wires a little to get to the plug adapter.  Disconnect.

 
Step 28:
YOU ARE FINISHED.  You should be holding a bare Version 3 - AK47 mechbox in your hands.. Reinstallation is in the reverse order of removal.

For information on how to install a spring in a Version 3 mech box click here.  The Sig552 Mech box is the same as an AK47/AK47S mech box.