Step 1: After you remove you magazine and carrying handle this is what it should look like.
** Note, removing the carrying handle is optional.**

Step 2: At the front and rear of the receiver are the 'receiver pins'.  Notice that on one side of the receiver (normally the right side) there is a 'head' on the pin.  The pin removes from the opposite side (the left side).  Some pins will have a piece that actually screws into the receiver pin to secure it in place.  If you have that type, you need to unscrew that piece first before moving on.

Here is the rear receiver pin, located above and slightly behind the selector switch.

Here is the front receiver pin, located at the front of the receiver near the 'joint'.


Step 3: With a 1/4" punch or something similar firmly yet carefully push out the rear receiver pin.  Push it all the way through and remove it.

Step 4: Do the same to the front receiver pin and set them aside where you won't lose them.

Step 5: Take notice to the pins, the front pins head has a flat spot that mates up with the receiver.  Plus the front pin is longer than the rear pin.

Step 6: Flip the M4 over onto its top and pull back on the ring that holds the fore grip together.  Yes, you are removing the battery if not done so already.

Step 7: Disconnect and remove the battery and also remove the entire fore grip.  This Tokyo Marui M4 already had its fuse removed due to the modifications to the gun.  You should see a fuse 'plate' or something similar.

Step 8: Disconnect the wires from the fuse plate or from the fuse 'block'.  If your wires have been hard wired, you may have to remove the 'pins' from the connector itself.  I'll talk about that later, but this is what it should look like (sort of)

Step9 : Now that the upper receiver is 'disconnected' carefully pull up on the rear of the receiver.  Be careful not to pull too hard or at an angle otherwise you will break off the tabs which you will notice are missing in this pic.  No.. I didn't break them.. it came to me like this... really. 

Step 10: Completely separate the upper and lower receiver but do not pull too far apart.

Step 11: Carefully pull the wires through the upper receiver.

Step 12: Now you can set the upper receiver aside and this is what you should have.

Step 13: On the collapsible rear stock there is a spring pin on the bottom.  Pull down on this about 3/4 inch.

Step 14: This will allow you to slide the butt piece off of the rear stock guide.

Step 15: At the end of the rear stock guide, there is a plate that is held in place with an Alan head screw.  Using the correct size Alan wrench, loosen and remove the screw and the plate.

Step 16: If you look 'inside' of the rear stock guide, you will see a Phillips head screw.  Using a medium sized screw driver loosen and remove this screw.

Step 17: You can now pull the rear stock guide off of the receiver.

Step 18: Notice the orientation of the 'washer' on the screw you just removed.  This is how it needs to go back together.

Step 19: Move to the bottom of the pistol grip.  You will see two screws, loosen and remove them.  REMEMBER which screw goes where.  One is short and one is long.

Step 20: If it hasn't fallen off already, there is suppose to be a spacer plate on the motor.  It is suppose to go in between the cover plate and the motor.  Don't worry about its significance other than YOU NEED IT so don't lose it.

Step 21: Disconnect the wires from the motor.

Step 22: Notice that the motor has a 'red' spot near the positive or 'red' wire.  Be sure they go back together, otherwise you will reverse polarity on the motor and .... well we won't talk about that.

Step 23: With a pair of needle nose pliers or something similar, carefully yet firmly, pull the motor out.

Step 24: If you look 'inside' of the pistol grip, you will see two more Phillips head screws, loosen and remove them.

Step 25: This will allow you to pull the pistol grip completely off of the mech box.  Here is another look at the threaded end of those screws.

Step 26: On the mag release (the button you push to drop the mag) there is another smaller Alan head screw.  Loosen and remove this screw.  This particular gun had a stripped head so it took a little 'MacGyver move' to get it out.  Lesson learned.. don't tighten this too tight on re-assembly and NO.. I did not strip this either.

Step 27: After the screw is removed, you can pull the mag release apart.  There is the 'button', a spring and the actual 'release'.  The release comes from the opposite side.

Step 28: Next, loosen and remove the screws that hold in the 'feed' tube.  DO NOT try to remove the tube just yet, it will come out AS you remove the mech box.  If you attempt to remove the tube now, you may end up breaking your air nozzle or worse yet, the feed tube itself.  DO NOT mix up these screws with the screws from step 29 (the next step)

Step 29: In this location, there 'should be' another piece that holds the wires in check.  Loosen and remove the screws holding that in.  You can completely remove this piece.  DO NOT mix up these screws with the screws from step 28 (the last step)

Step 30: The next thing is the pin that holds the mech box in place.  It is located just above the trigger.  Carefully yet firmly, push this pin out.  ** NOTE** this pins is 'scored' on one side, so if it feels a bit 'tough' try from the other side.

Step 31: You're almost there, now all you have to do is to remove the mech box from the M4 receiver.  Remember step 28?  You will understand now.  Carefully pull the mech box from the receiver in a upward and forward direction.

Step 32: When it gets about 3/4 inch of the way out, completely pull out the feed tube that you loosened in step 28. 

Step 33: After you have reached 'this' point, carefully push back down on the front of the mech box.  This is to help 'guide' the trigger out of the receiver.  You will see what I mean when you get there.

Step 34: YOUR DONE..!!