Hey guys I have been doing some upgrades on my m14 and I put in a guarder m110 spring and an Airsoft GI POM Piston. My stock eg700 doesn't seem to be able to pull it. I am wondering what type of motor I should get for it. I have been leaning toward a G&P m140 or a Systema Magnum for an extra 30 bucks but any other suggestions are welcomed.

Are you sure it's the motor and not any wire problems? If you are , the G&P M140 is a good choice. I've heard stories of Magnums burning out real fast. I've used G&P motors before , they are great.

Guarder springs are labeled SP-110 not M-110.

Anyway, my question is, did you put your gun together correctly? I ask because on my 3 upgraded TM M-14's, they are all running stock motors with 1 SP-110 and 2 SP-120s.

You might have shimmed the gun too tight, your motor height might be too deep, you might have pinched wires, or your polarities might be reversed.

I guessed i might have shimmed it too tight because either the gun was already missing some shims or i lost them when i was changing the bearings. one seemed to be stuck. I was going to buy a systema shim set when i bought a new motor. you can hear the motor trying and it just wont spin. the motor height wasn't messed with at all.

Whenever you remove a motor or separate it from the mechbox, you should always redo your motor height. When you change parts inside your gun, things shift around

My 500 fps TM M14 is running a stock motor.

bearings... though I'm sure they can handle the tension of the spring it is still highly suggested that you go metal bushings just for reliability... aegs atk the weakest point in your mechbox and bearings being that they are "multi-piece", are inevitably bound to failure even more so when you start going into higher FPS ranges.

your motor height seems to be too far "in" lossen it a bit about a half turn and try the trigger again, repeat until it turns over... once it starts spinning go quarter turns till you hear less grinding but if you start to hear alot of whining you've gone too far and go back 1-2 quarter turns...

Also check that your battery is charged...

Ball bearing bushings should be no issue with a 110 spring. Sounds like you shimmed to tight, and need to adjust the motor height. EG motor should have zero issues pulling that spring.

should i manually be able to move the gears because at this point it won't even budge unlike another TM m14 gearbox I have, also aren't fps limits around here 400 so what is the point of having a 500fps gun? Also sorry for the brain fart... I meant bushings not bearings. They are Systema oil less 6mm bushings.

When shimming, try using this guide:

http://www.858airsoft.com/upgrades/shim.html

As far as fps is concerned, the limits on an aeg range from 400fps to 425 fps in San Diego, so unless you play on off sunday's, or have a private field, 500fps in an m14 is a bit impractical.

TAKE YOUR TIME!!! My first shim job took me almost two hours. When you are done shimming the gears, take everything out of the gearbox except the gears. Tighten every screw on the shell completely. There should be no/minimal play in any gear, and if you spin them, they should revolve easily. The top gear should make several revolutions at minimum.

Lateral play is what you want to concern yourself with the most. If there is too much lateral play, your gears will move back and forth which will cause a world of problems to your gears, piston, pinion gear, and anti-reversal latch

I already had that shim guide in bookmarks but thanks for the help. Since there is no real reason to buy a motor then. What else should i consider buying while I have the gearbox open. I already have bought a piston, spring guide, bushings, spring. I am going to buy a piston head, cylinder head, and shims. Any other internals you guys recommend throwing in there?

Frankly, fps limits vary depending on where you play & who you play with. But my real point is if the stock motor can function in a 500 fps gun, you obviously have done something wrong.

It just dawned on me it might be due to a weak battery. I have no clue what type of battery i have because i bought the gun used and it came with a different then stock battery. It doesnt say much just Ganzo69-batteries then above that High Output AEG Batteries and it has 8 cylinder type batteries in it.

Anyone ever heard of this type of battery? If so what quality is it?

It's a run-of-the-mill 9.6v battery. The big question is did you charge it correctly, or is it old/damaged/poor quality? You can always bring it into AEX and put your AEG on the inverter and your battery on our testing charger. That will answer most of your questions in a few minutes.

the guy gave me a smart charger so i am guessing he knew to leave it on until it is done and that charger wont let it over charge. I also take good care of my batteries i always discharge them after ops and charge them fully when i need it.
thanks for they help Ill drive up to AEX in the next month or so.

Dis-charging a battery should only be done for a ni-cd type battery. Dis-charging any othr type of battery will either be A) extremely dangerous, example: LiPo. or B) incredibly pointless/waste of time, example: NiMh.

Make sure you if you do actually need to discharge, that you do so in a regulated manner. Most NiCd chargers should have a discharge feature and I recommend using it. I do not recommend homemade dischargers unless you completely and entirely understand and know what you are doing.

Another thing you should be aware of is that some smart chargers are not actually smart believe it or not. If your battery cells become warm during the charging process, you are actually damaging the lifetime of the battery. The cheap "smart chargers" simply charge a battery at a set/user selectable rate and stop when it can no longer charge the battery. However, the charger does not sense if the cells are becoming warm and it will also stop charging when it receives a certain amount of resistance. Based upon how the "smart charger" was designed, you may not actually be charging the battery completely.

I stick with my previous post and will restate that you should look into re-shimming your rifle. Your stock motor should be able to pull your spring with no issues. You should also be able to somewhat rotate the gears with your finger to some degree. A version 7 gearbox does not have much room for one to rotate the gears by hand when closed but again, you should be able to somewhat rotate the gears.

Could you post a picture of your battery so we can see what you have. Discharging NiMH batteries can actually ruin them if they are discharged to much resulting in the polarities being reversed.

I will post a picture of the battery but I want to ask a quick question, i bought a POM piston by Prometheus here is the link:

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.p ... ts_id=5413

my question is how do i install this... I think I did it right, i put the first "washer" on the other side of the piston with the black piece and screw and the "washer" with the balls through it is right up against the piston on the piston head side. Is this right and if not how do I install it properly thank you guys you have been a big help.

No the two "washers" and ball bearing go inside the piston leaving the spring to move freely but the way you did it is not going to hurt. If anything it helped because it helped fixed your AOE.

So change it or not?

*I also wanted to add that the 2nd tooth on my piston is missing because that is were it commonly miss aligns in case that changes anything*

I was going to add that the next time you open your gearbox you should remove the second tooth on your piston to avoid premature engagement. So with the 2nd tooth already gone it actually helps avoid stripping your piston.

There is no need to change it.

OK guys,
I tried it all, I re-shimmed it yesterday and now with a screwdriver I can get about a 1/4 turn with lots of effort. But then I tried to adjust the motor height and nothing just same old click sound of motor trying, I put the motor height fully out and nothing. I have no clue what I did but that thing wont even start to cycle. While I do not have Tons of faith in my re-shimming skills, I got about 2 and 1/2 turns out of a single spin. please help I have put about $150 of internals in this thing and I cannot get it to work...

Luckily I happened to acquire a tm stock gearbox as a back-up but I only have 1 motor. This is also how I know the polarities are not messed up because it works fine on that.


Thanks for the patience.

You need to find another 9.6v battery and see if it cycles your gearbox. The battery you currently have may pull your stock tm spring just fine, but the new SP110 spring may just be tough enough to prevent your gearbox from cycling, especially with your stock tm gearset.

Disagree.

I still believe you shimmed too tight. When you shim, do you replace every single screw and try to rotate the current gear you are on?

In simpler terms, take everything out of the gearbox. Put bushings for the spur gear in along with spur gear. Install and tighten all gearbox shell screws. Check rotation. Check lateral(sideways) movement on spur gear. The idea is to have no lateral movement, however a very very slight amount should be ok.

If there is lateral movement for the spur gear, open gearbox and install the necessary shims. Replace all gearbox shell screws. Check for rotation. Check for lateral movement. Repeat this step as many times as you need to.

The other two gears should be shimmed in this manner as well but by leaving the previous gear/bushings/shims in place. Yes this method is tedious in opening and closing the gearbox. Yes this is the right way to shim. Yes you need to do this.

If you require any further help, feel free to PM me and I will more than glad to help.